You may be looking at showing your prints in a public places gallery, at a local art gallery or an art festival. Or you may already be selling a number of prints and you need to fulfill numerous orders quickly. Building your own picture frames can be very rewarding from both a creative and a financial standpoint. Or, it can be a source of great frustration and unnecessary expense. This article is designed to help you understand what is involved technically, with equipment and with materials acquisition. This article is written by a small time framer who has used these basic tools and has not had access to top-of-the-line framing tools.

There are some good reasons to make your own frames:

1. The process and results can be enjoyable.
2. Cost savings over buying frames from a frame shop or online, so you can either have more profit or charge more competitive prices for your work.
3. You can often fulfill orders much more quickly if you make your own frames.

There are some reasons you should not make your own frames:

1. It can be a source of frustration.
2. It takes away from your time to create your photographic art.
3. There are initial equipment and material acquisition costs.
4. Space is needed for construction and storage.

To help you make this decision, here is an example of what cost savings can be. I have chosen two moulding designs that I use from Roma Moulding, a leader in wood moulding.

"Length" means the price per foot of a long piece of moulding. Chop is the price per foot based, usually based on the dimensions of your picture. This price covers the labor to cut the pieces, the excess length of the outside of the frame and the waste. The box price requires the purchase of the number of feet shown, usually in 8’ or 9’ lengths. When purchasing lengths, add 1/2 foot for waste on each side of the four sides of frame if the frame width is no more than 1.5 inches. Add one foot of waste for each side when the frame width is over 2 inches. 

From a box of the 1.5” Raven Black, I can make about eighteen 24x32 frames, at a raw cost of about $35 a frame (including shipping costs). Compare this cost to the the following frame costs:

Chopped frame from Roma Moulding $105
Frame Destination $177
Bay Photo (with print order) $114
Custom Frame Solutions $106

Note that if you order chopped pieces or assembled frames, that the manufacturer automatically adds 1/8 inch to the size of the specified frame so that your photo, mat, backing materials and glass will fit without binding. Some manufacturers will also rout out slots for plastic T-nails in the back of the chopped pieces. This is an alternate method of joining frames, but can be pretty quick if you don't want to get into buying the tools for the V-nail method. To see how T-nails work, you may watch this video.

Cutting the Frame

Confirm that your saw blade is perfectly vertical and that your blade locks into 45 degree angles. If you have not assembled your own frame before, consider buying a 4’ section of 1x2 alder at your local big box hardware store and cut an 8’x8” frame. Assemble this frame and assure that joints are closed and corners are at 90˚ angles.

1. Layout your pieces on the lengths of the stock so that you have the minimum amount of waste. Position your piece on the saw table and firmly clamp it into place. If any end extends well beyond the saw table, be sure they are supported. 
2. Measure the length of the first piece so that it is approximately 1/8” longer that what you need. Remember, your frame should end up 3/32" to 1/8" in both dimensions than the size of the artwork and glass. This measurement is from what will be the underside of the frame corner, of the offset on the back of the frame, NOT the inside corner of the front of the frame. Aways measure twice, cut once. Avoid fingers, they are needed for you camera controls!
3. Use a “creep up” technique to get the right measurement. Be sure your blade position is locked down at 45˚. Use a chop technique rather than drawing the blade toward you. This is the most accurate and safest way to cut. 
4. Use the first piece to measure the length of the opposite side. Again, use the “creep up” technique. Place the two pieces back to back on a flat surface to confirm that they are EXACTLY the same length. This is where you skill as a wood artisan comes in. If you have over shortened one piece, do not adjust to less than 3/32” for your excess over the artwork length.
5. Cut your different sizes using the same techniques listed above. 

Assembling the Frame

1. If you are using a dark frame, use a furniture pen to color about 3/16” of the cut angles adjacent to the face and side of the frame. This is to keep from showing light colors on any slightly open joints.
2. With closed grain hardwoods, dampen the ends to be joined with a sponge to help raise/open the grain. 
3. Apply a quality wood glue. Place the two corners together and make sure the glue is well applied to both ends. Wipe off any excess, then place in the Logan clamp. Assure that the inside and outside corners match and that the faces of the two pieces are level with each other. 
4. Turn the clamp over and position it under the pieces under the nailer. The Logan Joiner comes with a couple of small platforms to help you support your work. I find them to be awkward. Since the joiner’s table sits 1-1/4” off the table top, I use frame stock of that same height to support frames as I V-nail them.
5. Place the appropriate length and strength V-nail against the pin with the cutting (ragged) edge toward your joint. Pull the lever down to fully seat the V-nail.
6. Adjust the position of the corner until for additional pins. For 3/4” to 1.5” stock, two pins should work. For larger stock, place pins about 3/4 inch apart and no closer than 1/2 inch to the edge. 
7. Add one more side using the same technique.
8. For the last side, glue both corners. I like to place a frame clamp on the corner not being nailed to help keep the frame flat.
9. Once you have assembled all the corners, lay the finished frame flat and assure your joints are together properly. If you have slightly open joints you can force glue into the spaces and wipe off the excess.

The Logan Joiner works for frame widths up to about 2-3/4”. 

For longer lengths (36” or more), use a band clamp or corner frame clamps to assemble all the glued pieces first. Let the glue dry before nailing. 

Your frame must be supported underneath the position you are nailing. Frames that aren't flat on the face are a challenge. If you are nailing a scalloped moulding, you must place support under the areas that don't contact the surface of your nailer. You will need a jig to support both corners so the frame backs stay level with the surface. A soft wood that won't damage your frame can be cut with a router for this purpose if you don't have frame scraps that will work. A soft wood is least likely to damage the face of your frame. Don’t select frames that are fragile on the face.

If you aren’t yet set on your favorite print sizes, you might want to pick before you start cutting frames. Standard sizes can help you purchase Museum glass or acrylic at good prices. These are supplies you might buy at unitedmfrs.com if you are framing large quantities of prints and want them to look great!

• True Vue Optium Acrylic or Museum Glass 
  
• Note that shipping costs can be very high on these products, so large quantity orders will help you save. For small orders, set up an business account with Michael’s frame center for better prices. Their Masterpiece glass is essentially the same material as Museum Glass.
• Dust cover paper
• D-rings - less than 1/4 the cost at your local art or hardware store 
  
• 40 lb picture wire 
  
• Picture pads - for lower back corners of frames. Use them on your cabinets at home as well to soften the noise

Unless you are doing hundreds of prints, hard and soft V-nails can be purchased at dickblick.com or on Ebay.

Miter Saw
Saw Battery
70-80 Tooth Saw Blade
Irwin 12" Clamps (2)
Small triangle square
Tape Measure (a 48" metal ruler may also be helpful)
Brown and Black Furniture Pens
High quality wood glue
Logan Frame Pinner (F300-1)
1/2" V-pins, for hard and soft woods
Frame Clamps (2 minimum)